TECH : Is the apple watch the new swatch ?

With the recent release of the Apple Watch Series 8 and Apple Watch Ultra, Apple cements its throne as the world’s largest watch manufacture.  Among its myriad of features, Apple’s latest novelty introduces a larger screen, optimized UI, automated sports tracking, and health monitoring capabilities - that can help save your life.  Meanwhile, wearing a Rolex in the wrong neighbourhood might just do the opposite… And you can get one for a fraction of what you’d pay for that Rolex. 

Upon the unveiling of the first Apple Watch in 2014, many industry experts speculated on the death of the mechanical watch - akin to the Quartz crisis of the 70’s that shuttered the doors of many historic Swiss brands.  Let’s turn back time a little, shall we? 

By now, most of us know the story of the quartz crisis - the rise of battery powered watches from Japan taking the world by storm and wreaking havoc on the Swiss watch industry. Why would you spend thousands of dollars (in today’s money) when you could get something that not only did the same job - but better - for a fraction of the price?!

The Swatch Watch, introduced in 1983, was Switzerland’s response to this conundrum.

Although late to the game, it fast become the symbol of the quartz revolution with its never been seen before plastic case, rubber strap, and “Swiss Made” quartz movement (with only 51 parts). In tune with the changing cultural climate at the time, the Swatch Watch also brought about some much needed fun to the wrist watch with its bold colours and playful designs in sharp contrast to the stuffiness typically associated with the Swiss watch industry.

And perhaps most significantly - for the first time in history, a wrist watch was able to break into the world of fashion and pop culture through collaborations with artists as well as sponsorship of various music and sports events. (i.e. Kiki Picasso, Keith Haring etc.)

This innovative approach to production, design, and marketing seemed to pay off; it took less than 10 years to sell 100 million watches making Swatch the largest watch manufacturer (by revenue) at the time.

Despite the disruptive nature of the Swatch, the mechanical watch industry survived and eventually began to thrive again.  As it turns out, a symbiotic relationship of sorts was established between mechanical watches and its younger quartz powered cousin.  After all, Swatch - an amalgam of “Second” + “Watch” - was intended as a fun “non compete" product to keep the Swiss watch industry afloat.  Not only were profits used to prop up numerous traditional brands helping to save the Swiss watch industry as a whole but the shift in perception of the wristwatch from tool to fashion trend created by the Swatch Watch also helped increase desire for mechanical timepieces as a luxury product (aka status symbols).

Essentially, Swatch got people interested in watches again.  

So are we witnessing history repeat itself?

It’s no secret that smartwatches are much more capable than even the most complicated Patek Philippe for much (MUCH) less money.  But no one seemed to take them seriously until Apple joined the party.  While not the first to market, the Apple Watch did it all better with a perfect marriage of form, function, and features - just as they’ve done across other categories for years.  If quartz made mechanical watchmaking seem obsolete, then the Apple Watch knocks its back into the stone ages.

Along with its now iconic design, groundbreaking technology and best in class UI, Apple is right on the money with the priorities of this generation - staying connected, active, and healthy.  As Apple touts, the Apple Watch is an “indispensable daily companion that keeps you connected to the people and things you care about most”.  They’ve also done more to merge wearable tech with fashion and lifestyle through clever partnerships with Hermes and Nike - addressing a major sticking point when Smartwatches first surfaced.

In barely 7 years, the Apple Watch has become a global phenomenon and cultural icon that you’ll find strapped to the wrists of executives, politicians, celebrities, athletes - and basically everyone in between.  To say that the Apple Watch is a success is an understatement.  With over 100 million units sold, Apple sells more watches than the entire Swiss watch industry - combined.

Yet somehow, mechanical watches are hotter than ever?!

Perhaps not the existential threat to traditional watchmaking that quartz technology once posed, it seems the Apple Watch has instead become a ‘gateway drug’ to a whole new generation of collectors.  Suddenly, those who had no interest in wrist watches whatsoever have fallen down that very deep rabbit hole of watch collecting after jumping on the Apple Watch bandwagon.  As you get used to wearing something on your wrist, you start to realize all the occasions when you'd rather be wearing a Reverso than a smartwatch.  Moreover, the utility of the Apple Watch as a “device”, allows us to look at mechanical watchmaking through a different lens (or loupe if you will) - as objects of desire, craftsmanship, and artisanal ingenuity.  I mean, just check out the back of an A. Lange and Sohne Datograph if you want to know what I’m talking about!

In a twist of fate, the success of the Apple Watch has forced the watchmaking industry - widely known for its stubborn resistance to change - to take a page out of the Swatch playbook as we see more collaborations with artists and lifestyle brands in addition to sponsorship of various sports and entertainment events.  Brands are also having more fun than ever - take a look at H. Moser’s Swiss Alps watch with its ironic parody of Apple’s iconic design.  Now how’s that for a twist?

All this may explain - at least in part - why many (if not most) major Swiss watch brands are reporting record sales in 2021, either matching or exceeding pre-covid levels which were already at an all time high. Instagram and other social media platforms have no doubt contributed to the wrist watch boom of today but it's tough to deny the correlation between Apple’s runaway success against the sustained (and growing) interest in mechanical watches.

The Apple Watch, like the Swatch Watch before it, is a historical contribution to horology that despite its disruptive nature, has made our antiquated hobby more relevant than ever.  Watch Snobs the world over can take a collective sigh of relief.